Brussels — Beginning September 1, the European Union has officially banned an ingredient commonly used in gel nail polishes, marking a major change for the beauty industry across Europe.

The restricted substance, TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), has long been valued for giving gel manicures their glossy finish and rapid drying time under UV or LED light. However, EU regulators have now classified it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction,” citing studies that suggest it may harm fertility and reproductive health.

A Popular but Risky Polish

Gel nail polish, which rose to mainstream popularity in the 2000s, is applied like traditional polish but hardened under UV or LED lamps, producing a chip-resistant shine that can last for weeks. Not all gels contain TPO, but many leading brands still do.

Until now, TPO had only been allowed in professional use and in limited concentrations of up to 5%. Under the new EU rules, its sale, marketing, and use in cosmetics are banned outright, with no grace period for salons or distributors to sell off existing stock.

Precaution vs. Proof

Some medical experts stress that the ban reflects a cautious approach rather than definitive proof of harm to humans.

“The European Union is banning it out of caution, since even though we don’t yet have large-scale human studies proving harm, the potential risks were enough to warrant stricter regulation,” explained Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist with DermOnDemand.

While the evidence of health risks largely comes from animal studies, EU authorities decided the potential danger was too great to ignore — a move consistent with Europe’s stricter stance on cosmetic safety compared to the US.

Still Legal in the US

In contrast, TPO remains unregulated in the United States, where gel manicures continue to be widely available. According to industry research, more than 100 million American women use some type of nail product.

Consumers in the US concerned about exposure can request TPO-free gel options. Brands such as OPI’s Intelli-Gel system, Manicurist, Aprés Nail, Nail Creation, and Aimeili already offer alternatives. Experts also advise spacing out gel manicures, applying a protective base coat, and ensuring proper salon ventilation.

Broader Safety Concerns

Even without TPO, gel manicures carry other risks. The UV lamps used to cure polish have been linked to skin damage and increased cancer risk, while improper application can thin or weaken the natural nail. Additionally, when gels lift off, they can create gaps where bacteria — particularly Pseudomonas, which causes so-called “greenies” — thrive.

Industry Reaction

The EU first announced its decision in May 2024, with the implementation date confirmed earlier this summer. While consumer safety advocates welcomed the ruling, some nail professionals and distributors criticized the timeline, arguing that it left little opportunity to source safe replacements before the ban took effect.

As the EU enforces its new standards, the divide between European and US cosmetic regulation grows wider. For now, gel nail fans in America will have to make their own choices — either sticking with traditional formulas or seeking out brands that are ahead of the curve in offering TPO-free solutions.